10EE - No Exciter Voltage 10EE - No Exciter Voltage

Exciter wire hook up, hook up wire

Hook up Wire

This measurement checks for problems with the shunt field, brushes and armature windings. Here are some initial checks any time an exciter problem is suspected: Measure the resistance between exciter wire E1 and generator wire E2. Check the resistance between the exciter case and each of exciter wires E1 and E2 as well as generator wire E2.

The other side of the resistor was connected to a wire labeled E2 tvdsb french immersion boundaries in dating connecting back to the E2 terminal.

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This is done by briefly shorting terminals E1 and E2 together with a section of wire and a 2A fuse; the use of a push button to safely control the process is highly recommended. Connect the diode to exciter wire 3.

Diagnosing Problems with the Shunt Field Resistor A problem at step 3B, above, may be due to the exciter shunt field series resistor.

Inspect the resistor and its wiring, looking for cracks and signs of overheating.

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Be careful with the resistor; you can easily damage the windings under the slider! To protect the battery from the exciter and vise versa, we need to use a common diode in series with the battery.

Hook Up Wire

Shunt Field and Resistor: There are three wires coming from the exciter. You should be able to read resistance from the slider to the terminal on the other end of the resistor. For reasons known only to the Gods on Mount Sidney, that resistor is usually located in the end bell of the generator, not with the exciter as the wiring diagram indicates.

As soon as the voltage across the shunt field exceeds the battery voltage the diode will disconnect the battery from the circuit and prevent voltage from the exciter from trying to overcharge the battery.

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As far as I know, the exciter shunt resistor should have adjustment range of 40 to Ohms. A problem with the secret wiring not shown on the diagram that connects the resistor to the exciter can also cause the problem.

If the resistor is bad the exciter won't work.

Wire number 3 connected to an unlabeled wire that went to the variable resistor in the generator end-bell. Thanks to hitandmiss Bill for reading this over and giving me some great suggestions!

Unhook the wire from the machine side of the E1 terminal in the MG junction box and then check for voltage from the exciter removes any load side problems.

Series Field and Armature: A set of test leads with alligator clips is all you need for hookup.

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Make sure that the wires from the exciter and generator are hooked back up to terminal E2, but leave E1 disconnected for now. Next check the resistance between the exciter wire 3 and wire E2 from the generator.

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The exciter wires are the 3 wires that come into the right side of the terminal panel via the conduit leading from the exciter. Wire number 3 does not connect to the MG terminal strip; the connection is via a taped up splice, tucked into the right side of the terminal box.

If the procedure works, the exciter voltage should begin to climb immediately. Check rotation of MG use arrows on MG not exciter. Disconnect the wires from the exciter to terminals E1 and E2 and measure the resistance between them. The generator wires come out of the same hole in the back of the terminal panel as the 9 numbered AC motor wires; it may be possible to identify them by differences in the appearance of the insulation.

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Wires 1 and 2 connected to terminals E1 and E2, respectively, on the vertical terminal strip in the MG terminal panel. The reading should be nearly the same as that made directly at the resistor.

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Hook this wire up only after the exciter is producing voltage. Start the MG and monitor the voltage across E1 and E2. This check for problems with the wiring and winding insulation.